| Customer coments "What the bulletin boards say". |
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When asked 'Was our car as fast as any of the TVRs that you drive all the time?'
Jeremy Clarkson replied 'Well, if it's any slower you can't notice it!' |
These comments were found on http://rangerovers.net/forum
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After a year of temp fixes and a great deal of headaches I recently replaced the engine in my 99 RR 4.6(GEMS) Callaway.
Here is what I learned:
After extensive research of whether to rebuild, remanufacture, buy used, or buy new I decided to go with a new short engine from RPi in England. I was told and research confirmed that if you have a shifted liner on the 4.6 or 4.0 engines they are only good for boat anchors at that point. I found several people willing to sell me a rebuilt engine in the neighborhood of $2500. The fragility of these engines does not lend themselves well to this remedy.
So, I started to look for a new short engine at the best price. AB has them for $3995. The dealer wanted in excess of $4500 (I don't remember exactly only that it was ridicules). RPi wanted 1995.00 pounds (approximately $3525.00). You would think I would go with the AB considering they are the same engine from the factory and the shipping and tax would make the AB a more fiscally responsable choice. I would agree until I started adding some components.
Being that I have a RR that their are only 220 of I wanted to make sure the vehicle would last and keep the integrity in order. I decided to replace every component that I had read would or should need replacing within my mileage range (825000 at the time the decision was made).
Short engine
Engine front cover w/ oil pump
Lifters (16)
water pump
I saved a total of $752.49 buying from RPi.
Of course I also replaced the radiator, plugs, rocker shaft assymbly, belt, all related seals and gaskets. I also had the heads reworked, cleaned, and pressure tested by very competent technicians at Skragen in Houston. I would have replaced the heads but the stealer wanted $5212.22 EACH for the Callaway heads new. Yeah, I was going to pay them that LOL!
The removal and replacement of the engine was performed by The Rover Shoppe in Houston. In my opinion the best Land Rover mechanics in Texas hands down. If you are in Houston and need work done they are the place to go. I had dealt with other Rover mechanics in Houston and found them to be less than helpful (I won't name names)! Knowledgeable, courteous, fast, and patient they lend a helpful hand to our masochistic tendencies (in a positive way if that can be said).
RPi was very helpful in the process of picking and shipping the parts I needed. E-mail replies were handled quickly and informatively. It can be an intimidating ordeal to have an engine and parts shipped from abroad but they made the process simple. I never once thought they were going to take my money and run.
I don't often write favorably of any businesses I deal with. Most of the time I'm pessimistic. However in this case I can honestly say that RPi, Skragen, and the Rover Shoppe were tops.
Just my 2 cents add a grain of salt for flavor.
_________________
1999 Range Rover
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These comments were found on www.emog.com
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Give RPi a call and explain what you would like to achieve, at what price, and leave it to Chris Crane. Chris has the highest standard of business ethics that I have ever encountered, and I am completely confident that he would provide a wonderful engine for you at an excellent price. And you could have the knurled pulley fitted at the same time - as well as a set of the new exhaust manifolds Chris has developed. When you see these it will be apparent that they make the other designs look quite wrong - instead of turning downward like the standard LR cast iron variants (or the aftermarket alternatives) and then going through two 90 deg bends to exit rearwards, they duct the gasses straight out through the same hole in the valences and then have a single 90 bend rearwards - thus saving two 90 deg bends in the gas flow. They are also extremely well made - and far superior to any of the alternatives, including the "under the sump" cross flow designs. I remember reading a study of heat rejection in IC engines which cited the heat transfer from the manifolds into the head as a major source of thermal energy - so I would expect the engine to run cooler with the RPi manifolds too.
You are probably aware that while I think that the later LR (cross bolted)
engines are the design equal of any of their competitors, I am not
enthusiastic about having one in the standard Farmer Giles tune in my sports
car. The thing is just too - stolid - like boiled cabbage and dumplings.
Do not be concerned that if you tune it you will sacrifice low end power -
it is not the case. After Chris has finished with it you will have a lot
more power everywhere, and it will feel like it actually enjoys life too.
But I would swap it for a 4.6, if I were you, and then you can sell the
original to Button when he wants some more power.
Regards,
D P
Maryland
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These comments were found on www.discoweb.org
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By Norm on Friday, April 19, 2002
I had an RPi 4.6 with a Tornado chip put in my '95 last year -- BIG improvement over the 3.9!!!
You ought to check out RPi's very informative website and e-mail Chris Crane, and he can tell you exactly what you'll need to make the switch. Apparently, a new fuel-map chip is essential – otherwise your 4.6 will run too lean and eventually burn up.
As memory serves, in addition to using a 3.9 camshaft (check out Piper performance cams), the 3.9 oil pickup pipe, and 'relieving' your 3.9 oil pan to make room for the 4.6 crank journals (the 4.6 oil pan won't fit in a Disco), you'll need a spacer, either on the crank shaft or the cam shaft (can't remember which) to allow the 3.9 timing sprockets and distributor drive to line up correctly.
You also might look into putting a mid-year '95 front cover with integral oil pump (B suffix 3.9 motor) as these are supposedly an improvement over the separate oil pump and front cover of the earlier 3.9s. The cam shaft thrust plate on the 4.6 will not fit with a 3.9 cam, but the B suffix front cover/oil pump has a peg on the inside that supposedly prevents cam knock.
Also, if you have the older 14-bolt heads, I believe you're supposed to leave the outer 4 bolts loose (or off entirely), otherwise they may cause a head gasket leak -- check with RPi on that. And use new headbolts.
Good luck!
---Norm
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By Dee Cantrell (Disco_Dad) on Wednesday, March 13, 2002
This my be old news to some, but Chris Crane has some useful information
about superchargers on a 4.0- 4.6.
http://www.rpiv8.com/engine-3.htm go 1/2 down on the page
---Dee
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By Norm on Friday, May 03, 2002
I had a problem with Amsoil 20W-50 Racing oil in my RPi 4.6 -- I was losing about 1/2 quart of oil every fill-up (@240 miles) with no leaks and no smoke in a virtually new engine. I also noticed a slight 'fluttering' on hard acceleration at about 3500 rpm and above. The Amsoil tech surmised that this oil is so slick, it was blowing past the piston rings and suggested I switch to 'regular' Amsoil 10W-40, which I did. Since then, the oil loss has virtually stopped, although there is still some slight fluttering on hard acceleration.
I contacted Chris Crane at RPi, who recommends using Valvoline 20W-50 racing spec (non-synthetic) in their motors. He said that in most cases you may not have any problem with synthetics in Rover V8s because they are very forgiving motors with loose tolerances. However, they had had some problems with early cam wear in TVRs (sports cars running Rover V8s) using Mobile 1 -- apparently the problem is that the synthetics can be too slick/thin for the hydraulic lifters.
Anyway, I'm going to switch to Valvoline VR1 this week and see what the results are.
FWIW
---Norm
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By Dee Cantrell (Disco_Dad) on Thursday, April 04, 2002
Joe,
Chris Crane is a great Rover V8 engine resource for both his knowledge and parts. His site his www.RPiV8.com
Don't always go by the prices he has listed, call or email him, he is a really great person to deal with and I have picked his brains for years on Rover engine related questions.
As for my personal experience upgrades.
This can get $$ , I did this to my 88 RR I added a Piper Cam / Cloyes gear Set / Had the Heads rebuilt with oversize valves.
A fresh set of new or reman. injectors / A 8MM plug wire set, and not sure if you're a gems or non, but for the non, RPi has a rising rate upgraded fuel pressure regulator. Also I highly recommend the Optimax chip upgrade while we're shopping, a set of fresh cats and exhaust will always help.
I never got to Dyno mine, but RPi has all that data on record and many out there in the LR community have done the same upgrades.
I hope this helps you in your quest
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By Dee on Wednesday, July 10, 2002
Call Chris Crane at RPi for what a HPO 5.0 and all the adapters run, and all the other modifications needed, and emissions BS, you might be safer and 'money ahead' going with his Turnkey 5.2 V8s
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By Dee Cantrell (Disco_Dad) on Wednesday, June 19, 2002
Gregor,
Talk to Chris Crane @ http://www.rpiv8.com, he has a 4.0 to 4.6 complete kit. He is honest and his prices relate to the high quality parts he sells in other words you get your $$$ worth from him.
Paul, you missed his intent TOWING the 4.0 is pretty much gutless there.
---Dee
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By Dee on Thursday, September 05, 2002
Chris Crane is a great guy to deal with, he may be on the high side of pricing, but with him you do get what you pay for. It's one of those things how fast can you afford to go.
If you're looking for a budget rebuild, he has that, also lots of MoD stuuf.
I had one of his built-up large valve 3.9s a few years ago with an Optimax Chip. It beat the s#*t out of the old tired 3.5. And way more power than my POS 4.0
His 5.2 upgrade is a Monster, Iwould like to see that go to a 6.0 some day then I'll buy it.
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